When Japan Was in Vogue

One of many wide-ranging effects of the opening of Japan to foreign trade in 1853 was the surge of interest on the part of Western artists in the decorative arts, aesthetics, costumes, and crafts of Japan. The London Exposition of 1862 and the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1867 showcased Japan’s arts to Europeans for the first time, but even before this, many visual artists were already collectors of Japanese fans, kimonos, bronzes, and examples of the rich Japanese tradition of woodblock prints known as ukiyo-e. Artists such as Édouard Manet, Edgar Degas, Claude Monet, Mary Cassatt, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, and Vincent van Gogh, among many others, began incor- porating Japanese motifs and props into their own artworks, and many developed a visual style influenced by Japanese art in its use of asymmetrical composition, lack of perspective, bold colors, and clarity of line. As a stylistic movement, this interest in Japan and its arts is usually referenced using the French term “Japonisme” because of its prevalence among French artists.

Japonisme influenced the most important French writers of the day, such as Stéphane Mallarmé and Marcel Proust, and popular interest in Japan also helped make the works of Pierre Loti wildly successful—including the novel Madame Chrysanthème (1887), one of the sources for Madama Butterfly. In music, examples of Japonisme can be found in the opera La Princesse Jaune (1872) by Camille Saint-Saëns and in operettas like Gilbert and Sullivan’s The Mikado (1885) and The Geisha (1896) and San Toy (1899) by Sydney Jones.